Pressing in the new hub

Checking the new unit fit

 
     This is a good time to check the chain alignment. Put a straight edge across the primary at the engine sprocket and also at the clutch hub. Measure how far the chain is from the straight edge. If there is a noticeable difference, add or subtract from the spacer behind the engine sprocket. If all is well, put a couple of drops of blue thread sealer on the threads and install nut, tightening to 100 foot/pounds.

     Install the clutches starting with the .080 steel clutch plate. Add a friction disc then add a .047 steel plate and continue alternating steel and fiber plates ending up with a .080 steel plate on the outside. Put a dab of anti-seize on the stud threads of the hub. Install the spacer, pressure plate, diaphragm spring, and spring retainer with the bevel side in. Put lock tabs in place, then install the nuts and tighten them to 30 inch/pounds (not foot). Rotate tightening so that the spring pulls down evenly. It is easy to get a false torque reading while you are doing this, so double check yourself. Once the torque is complete, check across the spring plate with a straight edge. The plate should be flat within .010. If it isn’t, loosen the nuts, then retorque. If the results are the same and the plate is uneven, add supplied shims as per instructions. Once the plate is flat, proceed.

     Adjust the clutch as you normally would. Start by gently bottoming out the center pushrod, adjusting the screw, then back it out 1/2 turn and tighten the lock nut. Make the final adjustment at the cable.

     Adjust and tighten the chain. Install the primary cover and gasket and then add the correct amount of primary oil. Reinstall the battery cable.

     Go for a ride and make sure everything’s working right. When you feel comfortable, light it up and smoke it.

—Rogue