When I found out that Baker Drivetrain
manufactured a new oil pan for 1993 to
2008 FLH Harley-Davidson models, I was
interested. Hell, it held an extra quart
of oil, so I installed one on my 2004
FLHTI. An extra quart of oil in the
system is a sure way to lower engine oil
temperature and add to the life of the
The pan is made from Cast A356-T6
Aluminum and available in Polished,
Black or Silver and also in Chrome
Plated Billet Aluminum. They come ready
to install with all hardware and gasket,
except for the stabilizer hiem joint.
They also incorporated additional
features like built in baffles so you do
not have to use the stock plastic Harley
baffle. The oil feed tube has been moved
to the rear of the pan while the return
is still in the front. The oil
circulates and cools more before
re-entering the engine with this design.
They also incorporated the True-Track
handling system by building in the
stabilizer boss. That was an incredible
addition, since True- Track like systems
improve dresser handling immensely.
Installation was easy, but care must be
taken that the motorcycle is secure and
stable during the procedure. In other
words tie it down tight before jacking
it up. Please note that the procedure
may vary slightly depending on your
model, and you should refer to the
factory service manual for your
See his wife's pan there. He's in
I started by draining the engine and
transmission fluids. I removed the
engine oil dipstick so as not to damage
it when removing the oil pan. While the
fluids were draining, I removed the
Frame jack to remove the rear wheel.
Using a long 3/16 ball hex socket I
removed the ¼-20 bolts holding the pan
in place. There are holes in the frame
crossmember that allow you access to the
I used a frame jack to raise the
motorcycle to remove the rear wheel
being careful the jack was positioned
forward and not under the frame
crossmember. You may want to cut a
couple of short 4-by-4s and place them
under the frame rails so you can remove
the jack. That will give you more access
to your work area under the motorcycle.
Using a different jack and a small block
of wood placed under the engine case,
making sure it clears the frame rails, I
raised the engine and transmission
slightly to have clearance between them
and the rear crossmember when the oil
pan was changed.
Here's the stock pan removed with
baffles still inside.
Depending on the model of the motorcycle
and the exhaust system some parts may
need to be removed. In my case, I was
required to remove the muffler from the
saddlebag support. I also removed the
left side passenger floorboard, both
lower shock mounting bolts, chrome
swingarm bracket plugs and the nut from
the right side of the swingarm shaft.
Then I removed the left swing arm
bracket and rubber mount and push the
shaft to the left side of the
With the baffles removed.
I carefully raised the jack under the
engine until the transmission tail
section was about one inch above its
original position. I slid the stock oil
pan to the rear of the motorcycle.
Compressing the baffle spring with a
screw driver or other suitable tool, I
removed the stock bag from my precious
The new Baker Plus One Oil Bag.
Next, I cleaned the transmission gasket
surface with brake clean or solvent. I
used air to blow through the Baker Plus
1 Oil Pan pick up tube to make sure
there was no debris from shipping in it
or the pan itself. I slid the new oil
pan in place without the gasket to check
for clearance and fit, noting what bolts
will have to be installed in pan in
order to clear the frame crossmember on
final install. When satisfied I removed
and applied a coat of sealer to gasket.
Just for the record it is the same as
Harley part number 26077-99A
Blue Locktite was a must on all bolts.
With the Baker pan in place I started
all bolts in a few turns, checked that
all bolts were through and not binding
the gasket. I tightened starting in the
center and working to front and rear.
When pan touched the transmission, I
followed the torque sequence in the
instructions and tightened it to 90 INCH
LBS--Repeat at 110 INCH LBS.
Next I needed to lower the jack under
the engine until the transmission was in
line with the rear mounts. If you were
careful the right side would not need to
be moved. I checked to make sure that
the index tab was in the slot of the
rubber mount. I applied Anti-Seize to
the shaft and inserted it from the left
side of the motorcycle through both
rubber mounts. Torque the shaft to 40-45
FOOT LBS. I installed the left side
swingarm bracket and torque it to 34-42
FOOT LBS. If you are not familiar with
this procedure follow instructions in
Factory Service Manual.
I installed the rear wheel, checked belt
tension, replaced any exhaust parts, and
I remembered to operate the rear brake
lever a few times to make sure the brake
pads were back in position against the
I started using Spectro oil recently,
since they sponsor Bikernet. I used 24
ounces of their Heavy Duty 6-Speed Full
Synthetic in the transmission. Yeah, I
know I have a 5-Speed but this has some
extra additives and works great.
For the engine I used Spectro Full
Synthetic SAE 20W-50. Yes I did change
the oil filter. My Primary oil was due
for a change so that got the Spectro
Heavy Duty Chaincase oil.
I installed the Baker pan over a month
ago. I noticed the engine running cooler
and also a slight increase in oil
pressure. That will sure be a benefit on
my upcoming trip to Sturgis. Now if I
can only figure out what to do about the
price of gas, I will let you know.
To find out more about the Plus 1 Oil
Pan contact Baker Drivetrain, 9804 E.
Saginaw, Haslett, MI. 48840 – phone Toll
Free 1-877-640-2004 or on the internet