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Quick Throttle - Number 23 - JANUARY 1999


Rivera's Pro Clutch.jpg (68205 bytes)

Rivera's Pro Clutch
Left Stock Clutch; Right Pro Clutch.jpg (59912 bytes) Pressing out Stock.jpg (35502 bytes)
Left: stock clutch; right: Pro Clutch
 Pressing out stock unit

     After you have done all the things to your engine and it's running really well, are you having a problem getting it to the rear tire? Well, youíre not alone.


     Common sense is that if you up your horsepower you are also going to have to beef up parts between the engine and the tire.


      Normally this can be expensive. Sometimes you just need heavier clutch springs or better discs. If so, youíre lucky because after that things tend to get expensive.


     Now there is another option available Rivera Engineering has come up with a clutch upgrade for Harley and other Big Twin motorcycles. They have a conversion kit for the old Shovelhead
10 spring basket, and also an upgrade for the more recent diaphragm types. The cost is cut because you use your old clutch basket.


     The way they do this on diaphragm clutches is to increase the clutch friction area, which just makes a lot of sense. In the case of the 1986 to 1989 taper shaft model, this is an increase of 325 percent, while the 1990 and later spline shaft has a 100 percent increase compared to stock. 

     The Pro Clutch, as it is called, is easily installed into your existing clutch basket. The job isnít difficult, but some care and special tools are needed.


     Caution: Never work on any drive train part without first disconnecting the battery.


     Also, as with any new part or operation, read all the instructions all the way through at least once, and more if necessary until you have a good idea about what you are going to do and make sure you have all the necessary tools. 

     After the battery is disconnected, drain the primary and remove the outer cover. I like to take the engine compensating sprocket off first just in case it is stubborn. If need be, I can put the bike in gear and hold the brake while I break the nut loose. Use a 1 1/2 socket and a 1/2 drive impact wrench, or a breaker bar, and loosen the nut in the normal manner. 

     Loosen and remove the primary chain adjuster bolt with a 9/16 socket and on pre-90 models (for 1990 and up models see later) back off the adjusting screw. Remove the retaining ring and the release plate from the pressure plate and remove the transmission mainshaft nut with a 1 1/8 socket turning clockwise as the threads are left hand. Use an impact wrench or put the bike in gear and have someone hold the brake while you loosen the nut.

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Home ] Up ] 08 Dresser Exhaust ] 4-Valve Noise Fix ] 4-Valve Power ] Accurate Build Offs ] Accurate Built ] Baker Oil Pan ] Bassani Power Curve ] Bassani Touring Slip-On ] Daytona Twin Tec ] D-TwinTec Sensor ] Fuel Injection ] Gerolamy Dual FLow ] JIMS Fuel Tester ] New Chassis Stabilizer ] Rode Test Better Braking ] Seal In The Power ] [ Smoke It ] Swingarm Upgrade ] TrueTrack ] Touring Oil Cooler ] TV-3 ] TwinCam Breather ]


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